Delivery and Assembly

Unpacking

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For courier and freight purposes your Windcheetah is supplied in a partially dismantled form and will need some final assembly before it can be ridden. Please read these instructions thoroughly before commencing assembly.
If you have ordered accessories then some of these may be fitted whilst others are supplied unassembled - so please examine the content of the box thoroughly. If any accessories require assembly then instructions will be included. Carefully unpack all components and, if using a sharp knife or scissors, please be very careful not to damage any components, particularly the frame. Before discarding any packaging please ensure no components are still within.

Assembly

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  1. For the assembly you will need a ½ inch or 13mm socket and wrench (to fit the M8 nuts) an 8mm and 6mm hex key, and whilst not essential, a ½ inch or 13mm spanner will help.
  2. The first and most difficult task is to carefully assemble the front wheel brake back plates into the trunnions. Please take care not to rotate the back plates on their track rod arms as this will affect the tracking which has been carefully set at the factory. (Please note that all Windcheetahs are fully assembled and test ridden prior to disassembly for shipping). Dealing with one back plate at a time, remove the kingpin from the back plate assembly by first removing the M8 nyloc nut from the underside (this should be hand tight only) and pulling the kingpin upwards. Note the location of the nylon thrust washer on the top of the back plate. Swing the back plate assembly into place between the arms of the trunnion and locate the thrust washer between the top of the back plate and the top arm of the trunnion. Locate the kingpin by passing it through the top arm of the trunnion, through the thrust washer, through the back plate and then screw it into the bottom arm of the trunnion. The kingpin should be gently tightened, making sure that the backplate is free to rotate in the trunnion. Please be careful not to over-tighten the kingpin as it is possible to over-clamp the back plate in the trunnion resulting in stiff or notchy steering. Once satisfied, secure the kingpin with the M8 nyloc nut provided. The extra spanner is useful here to prevent the kingpin turning whilst tightening the lock nut. Repeat the exercise with the remaining back plate.
  3. Place front wheels on to the stub axles and secure with the M8 nyloc nut and washer provided. Squeeze brake lever firmly to centralise the brake shoes. Check both wheels rotate freely with no undue brake drag. Very small amounts of drag are normal due to the newness of the brakes and will clear after a few brake applications 'on the road'.
  4. The rear wheel can be fitted next and is located onto the rear axle using a hexagonal drive shaft so care is needed to align the wheel correctly. Locate the rear wheel by gently pushing the hub onto the hexagonal drive shaft. This sometimes takes two or three attempts to get precise location due to the close tolerances of the fit so please try again if unsuccessful at the first attempt. Secure with the M6 allen bolt and washer provided, make sure the allen bolt is fitted using the 'Loctite thread lock' glue provided. Please note the 2007 specification Windcheetah uses an 8mm Nyloc nut to secure the wheel, obviously this doesn't need to be assembled with Loctite.
  5. The Windcheetah may be shipped with the LH crank removed. If this is the case refit the crank referring to the relevant Shimano instruction sheet included with the bike.
  6. Fit the pedals of your choice. We recommend clipless pedals or a clip and toe strap. On no account should the Windcheetah be ridden without some method of keeping your feet in place on the pedals.
  7. Refit the derailleur arm to the tail piece using the two 5mm allen head screws, these should also be fixed using the Loctite adhesive provided.
  8. If you have ordered any accessories then these should be fitted next. Please refer to any instructions provided.
  9. Refit the rear seat support at the position indicated by the masking tape on the main frame tube. Do not tighten the two clamping screws at this stage, allow the support to find it's own position as the seat is fixed to it.
  10. Remove the four M8 button screws and washers from the seat isolation rubbers and locate the seat in place. Adjust the rear support position if necessary to allow easy alignment of the holes It is easiest if the front is located first, followed by the rear. When you are happy with the position of the seat in relation to it's mountings, secure with the four M8 button screws and washers. Check that the rear seat support is vertical and located snugly on the main tube, then tighten the two clamping bolts. Place the seat cushion at the front and the longer back cushion behind up the curve of the seat. Both are fitted onto the long Velcro strip. Press the headrest into place onto the small patch of Velcro at the top of the seat. The Windcheetah is now ready to ride!

Fitting an Airflow Front Fairing

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Before fitting the Tail box, make sure that you are comfortable with the position of the seat on your Windcheetah. These instructions are for fitting a tail box that has been supplied with a new bike. If you are retro fitting a tailbox to a bike you already own you will need additional instructions on how to position the box and drill the seat to accept the four main mounting bolts.

  1. A second pair of hands will make this simple job a lot easier Remove the lid from the rear box.
    Remove the bolts and washers from the seat/box please notice the position of the rubber and metal washers.
  2. Put one fixing bolt through the top hole on the seat (metal washer front seat side) and push a rubber washer up to the back of the seat so that it rests against the carbon. Repeat this with the adjacent bolts.
  3. Position the tail box until the bolts slide through the pre drilled holes. Make sure that there is a rubber washer in between the seat and the tail box on all fixing bolts.
  4. With the tail box in place, you are now ready to fit the rear support strut. The fixing bolt that goes on the carbon lip of the tail box is in position on the strut. The carbon strut fixes to the tail casting on the frame see photo). On a Hypersport with the old design of tail casting there will be a carbon fibre angle bracket to attach to the circular boss on the rear of the casting using two 5mm allen screws, the bottom stay mounting bolt then attaches to this bracket. On the Clubsport and the current Hypersport the lower end of the support stay is attached to the ‘tail’ of the casting using a 6mm allen screw in the ‘spare’ hole just ahead of the derailleur mounting bolts. On some older Clubsports this hole may not be present. If it is not present then a 5mm hole should be drilled about 20mm in front of the derailleur arm mounting bolts, this should then be tapped with a 6mm thread. (If taps are not available it is OK to drill a 6mm hole and secure the bolt with a nyloc nut) Care should be taken when positioning this hole that the protruding end of the securing bolt will not foul the chain when running on the large sprocket.
  5. Check the alignment of the wheel in the wheel well and adjust the position of the stay using spacers, or by swapping the mounting to the other side of the tail box lower flange, until the wheel is central in it’s apperture.

Fitting Mudguards

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  1. Your mudguards are supplied partly assembled with the stays already fitted to the mudguards.
  2. Before work begins, support the Windcheetah by its frame and remove both front wheels. The mudguards can now be fitted.
  3. Fit the aluminium ‘L’ brackets on the end of the stays to the backplate. The longer stay attaches by the hole in the front top corner of the backplate and the shorter stay by the hole in the ‘tail’ of the backplate behind the brake adjuster. Loosely tighten all four 5mm button head screws
  4. Temporarily replace the wheels and align the mudguard to give sufficient clearance around the tyre. Secure each of the backplate bolts as firmly as possible, so as to prevent the stays from moving (we suggest using a threadlocking compound such as Loctite 243) Fine tuning of the mudguard position can be achieved by moving the plastic clamps that attach the mudguard blade to the stays. Do Not try to move the stays in the aluminium attachment blocks. These are bonded onto the stays and will become loose if attempts are made to alter their position. When you are happy with the mudguard position relative to the wheel, remove the wheel and Very Gently nip tight the small screws that attach the blade to the plastic clips. Note that these screws screw into a thread in the plastic and overtightening them will strip the thread or snap the clip. They only need to be tight enough to support the very light carbon fibre blade. Once this is done carefully tighten the nyloc nut by holding the screw head with an allen key. Again use only the most gentle pressure, this nut is only there to lock the screw against loosening by vibration whilst riding.
  5. Once you are happy that the mudguards are as firmly attached as possible and do not move when knocked, the wheels can be refitted and their Nyloc nuts tightened. Do not over tighten, simply tighten the nut until you feel it stop against the wheel, then give one last very light 1/4 turn.
  6. It is vitally important that the mudguards are not used as ‘handles’ when mounting the bike. They are designed to be lightweight spray guards for all weather riding ...NOT to support the riders weight!

Fitting the Carbon Tailbox

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Before fitting the Tail box, make sure that you are comfortable with the position of the seat on your Windcheetah. These instructions are for fitting a tail box that has been supplied with a new bike. If you are retro fitting a tailbox to a bike you already own you will need additional instructions on how to position the box and drill the seat to accept the four main mounting bolts.

  1. A second pair of hands will make this simple job a lot easier Remove the lid from the rear box.
    Remove the bolts and washers from the seat/box please notice the position of the rubber and metal washers.
  2. Put one fixing bolt through the top hole on the seat (metal washer front seat side) and push a rubber washer up to the back of the seat so that it rests against the carbon. Repeat this with the adjacent bolts.
  3. Position the tail box until the bolts slide through the pre drilled holes. Make sure that there is a rubber washer in between the seat and the tail box on all fixing bolts.
  4. With the tail box in place, you are now ready to fit the rear support strut. The fixing bolt that goes on the carbon lip of the tail box is in position on the strut. The carbon strut fixes to the tail casting on the frame see photo). On a Hypersport with the old design of tail casting there will be a carbon fibre angle bracket to attach to the circular boss on the rear of the casting using two 5mm allen screws, the bottom stay mounting bolt then attaches to this bracket. On the Clubsport and the current Hypersport the lower end of the support stay is attached to the ‘tail’ of the casting using a 6mm allen screw in the ‘spare’ hole just ahead of the derailleur mounting bolts. On some older Clubsports this hole may not be present. If it is not present then a 5mm hole should be drilled about 20mm in front of the derailleur arm mounting bolts, this should then be tapped with a 6mm thread. (If taps are not available it is OK to drill a 6mm hole and secure the bolt with a nyloc nut) Care should be taken when positioning this hole that the protruding end of the securing bolt will not foul the chain when running on the large sprocket.
  5. Check the alignment of the wheel in the wheel well and adjust the position of the stay using spacers, or by swapping the mounting to the other side of the tail box lower flange, until the wheel is central in it’s apperture.